A short 24 hour stay in Kathmandu, was spent visiting the revered and very spectacular Swayambhurath Stupa Temple, (see above photo). Climbing up and up the steps I counted dozens of dozing dogs lounging and soaking up the sunshine and their companions, the chattering monkeys, who would eagerly eye up and fly in the direction of anything remotely resembling food (children had been told specifically not to wave their ice creams wildly about). The peace was certainly palpable at this temple and felt a stillness as I reached the top and looked towards the whole of the city beneath me.
Alas ! The inner peace was not to last ! once leaving the city, we headed North East for the mountains to Mirge, Dolokha, where I would be working as a volunteer teacher, it felt like being on the edge of a mountain drop for 8 hours consistently. Up and up then down and down we went in a four wheeled drive, ascending then descending alternatively, on narrow mountain roads along with buses, cars, lorries and motorbikes coming in both directions. The cheerful, melodic tooting of the drivers as they passed each other, overtook or went round a bend, made me feel that there was a certain camaraderie which was quite uplifting and thankfully took my mind of the sheer drop on either side of the land-rover. Wow, I thought, maybe this could be a cure for road rage in the UK, cultivating patience in drivers by making them driving on thin, treacherous, mountainous knife- edged roads in Nepal…..well, just a thought.
Oh, must just add that we stopped for lunch at a rather “posh” road side restaurant, that had just been built, maybe for all the influx of trekkers into Nepal in recent years. Indeed, as we sat down to eat I spotted the trek guide, Wong - Chu, who accompanied Michael Palin for his programme “the Himalayas” on the Annapurna Circuit and Everest. I was most excited, what a stroke of synchronicity after posting the photo of Palin’s Himalayas book last week ! Yes I did respect Wong Chu’s privacy and right to dine in peace and quiet, did not ask for an autograph.
After a day’s bumpy ride I arrived rather dishevelled and worse for wear at the village school in Mirge, Dolakha. This school was rebuilt after the earthquake by money raised by sponsors Dot and Chris O’Brien, my travel partners who initially motivated me to volunteer at the school.
When we all finally arrived it was already dark and I felt disoriented and tired. I wheeled my collection of suitcases and guitar (unfortunately I still haven’t learnt the art of travelling light) to our sleeping quarters, I was sharing with a sponsor of the school, an energetic, generous young Chinese business woman, Jo Jo, who was on a three day visit to the school.
No sooner than I had started to unpack, my “monkey” mind took over; with a stream of interrogations; what am I doing here miles away from anywhere ? What do I hope to achieve ? What difference can I make, what can I offer ? Oh no, I can’t just pop out to Waitrose for a cappuccino and a slice of carrot cake, when I fancy… One by one my fears ganged up on me, determined to disrupt a potentially good night’s sleep.
Next morning I awoke to one of the most exceptional sights I have ever witnessed, the vast, Northern mountain ranges and foothills of the Himalayas with their deep, wide valleys in between. In these valleys the land was rugged and terraced which looked from a distance, like giant steps up to the mountain tops. No, I did’t burst into “The hills are alive….” with Julie, however against the backdrop of a perfect blue sky and warm sunshine, I started to feel better, I started to feel more peaceful and grateful.
That was just the beginning, myself and my travel partners gathered to watch the school’s assembly. The children sang the Nepali national anthem, marched around the playground and read out their daily devotions. At the end each child came forward and presented us with garlands upon garlands, bunches upon bunches of marigolds, the brightest mixture of oranges, yellows and reds, we were adorned in flowers. This is a Nepali tradition of honouring guests, I was both humbled and thrilled to have received such an abundance of flora from all of the schoolchildren, some of whom who have to walk two hours daily to come to school.
I have now been teaching here nearly a week, and I love it with a passion. The enthusiasm and motivation which the children have is a joy to share. ( I mean, you must be fairly motivated to learn if your getting up at 6.30am to walk to school for 8.30am ?) This is just the tip of the iceberg, I’m looking forward to my next few months here and hope to continue with this blog next week.
Thank you for sharing your comments and if you “like” this virtual travel journal.
This is me wearing all the garlands from the children !